Ditching Cape Traffic for Rockport's Rugged Coast
- Denise Miles-Eckhart
- Jul 7
- 5 min read
While half of New England spent their Fourth of July trapped in bumper-to-bumper purgatory on Route 6 trying to cross the Sagamore Bridge, Mark and I quietly slipped away in the opposite direction.
Let the crowds have the Cape. I’ve learned that the true art of travel lies in finding the exact mood you want—without the traffic or the tourist traps. Our destination? The rugged, granite-sculpted coast of Rockport, Massachusetts. It’s got all the salt-air magic, shingle-style architecture, and coastal romance of the South Fork of Long Island, but with a decidedly slower, more sophisticated rhythm.
The Anti-Cape Expedition
We spent the weekend floating through a perfectly curated itinerary that I highly recommend if you’re looking to escape the ordinary (and yes, they are all open and ready for your own weekend escape):
A Morning at Halibut Point State Park: We started our mornings walking the trails around the old granite quarry. Standing on the massive rocky ledges looking out toward Mount Agamenticus in Maine, the sheer power of the Atlantic crashing against the stone is therapeutic.
Strolling Bearskin Neck & The Art Nook: You can’t visit Rockport without a walk down the Neck to see Motif No. 1, but the real gem was ducking into local galleries. We spent a lovely hour browsing the beautiful coastal prints at The Art Nook, capturing that classic Cape Ann artists' colony vibe.
A Room with a View at The Emerson Inn: Named after Ralph Waldo Emerson himself, this historic oceanfront retreat is the perfect spot for sunbathing on the rocks or watching the mist roll in over the ocean with a cocktail on the veranda.
Supper at Brackett’s Oceanview Restaurant: Nestled right on Main Street, we secured a table overlooking the harbor to feast on local seafood while watching the twilight settle over the water.
An Unexpected Links Awakening
It was while sitting on the rocks at the edge of the Atlantic, watching the sea spray whip across the rugged coastal grass, that my mind did something entirely unexpected. It drifted to golf.
I’ve confessed before that until my recent professional dispatch to the US Open at Shinnecock Hills, golf was just a game I drew the short straw to cover. But standing on a rugged coastline changes you. I realized that the wind-swept, unpredictable terrain of Cape Ann looks precisely like the ancient linksland of the British Isles. I am officially a convert. I am utterly hooked on the romance, the history, and the sheer theater of links golf.
Which brings me to my current television schedule. Early July is the absolute pinnacle of my media calendar because the British summer sports season is in full, glorious swing. This week, my screens are split between the pristine grass courts of Wimbledon (where I am keeping a hyper-vigilant eye on the Royal Box for Princess Kate and King Charles) and the wind-whipped shores of East Lothian for the Scottish Open.
It’s the ultimate juxtaposition of British culture: the absolute, buttoned-up elegance of Centre Court versus the raw, chaotic battle against the elements on a coastal golf course. And I am entirely here for it.
Prepping for the Ultimate Open Watch Party
All of this is merely a dress rehearsal for next week's Open Championship across the pond. Emma up at Red Tail and I have been scheming behind the scenes about how to host the ultimate championship watch party. I’m happy to help her in the kitchen, if only to keep sparks out of her microwave.
If you are going to wake up at dawn to watch golfers battle sideways rain and deep pot bunkers, you need a breakfast that anchors the soul. For me, that means dusting off a recipe I have practiced, tweaked, and perfected for over forty years: The Definitive British Yorkshire Pudding.
Emma begged me for the secret, so I’m sharing it with her—and all of you—today. Pop these in the oven next weekend, pour a proper cup of tea, and let’s watch history unfold on the links.
Denise’s Forty-Year Yorkshire Puddings
The secret to a perfect, sky-high Yorkshire pudding isn’t magic—it’s physics. The batter must be cold, the fat must be screaming hot, and you must never, under any circumstances, open the oven door while they bake.
Ingredients
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup whole milk (room temperature)
4 large eggs (room temperature)
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Beef drippings to coat the tins (directly from the pan after roasting beef, with those rich, caramelized brown bits and juices from the meat) lard, or high-smoke-point vegetable oil also "work"
Method
The Batter Rest: In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, flour, and salt until completely smooth. Pour the batter into a pitcher, cover it, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours (overnight is even better). This allows the starches to relax, ensuring a lighter rise.
Get Screaming Hot: Preheat your oven to 220°C (425°F). Put a teaspoon of beef drippings or oil into each well of a 12-cup muffin tin (or a traditional popover pan). Place the tin into the oven for 10–15 minutes until the fat is smoking hot.
The Sizzle: Carefully pull the hot tin out of the oven. Give your cold batter a quick whisk, then quickly and evenly pour it into the sizzling wells (they should fill about halfway). It should hiss instantly.
The Golden Bake: Immediately return the tin to the oven. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes until the puddings are massively puffed, crisp, and a deep golden brown.
The Golden Rule: Do not open the oven door before the 20-minute mark, or they will deflate into sad, soggy discs! Serve immediately alongside prime rib, roast beef, or just smothered in rich onion gravy for breakfast.
Let's Chat!
Are you waking up early for the Open Championship next week, or are you just here for the Yorkshire puddings? Let me know in the comments below!
You may have noticed the new signs on our clubhouse doors. Chef's "A Trip to Spain" Wine Dinner is just around the corner on July 26 and is sure to be a true, Iberian escape with five courses—including Pulpo Parrilla and authentic Paella de Marisco—each perfectly paired with exceptional Spanish wines like Brut Cava and Albarino. Tickets are $55 per person and are selling fast, so secure your spot on the patio before they're gone.
Book a Tee Time at Shining Rock: Even if you're not hungry, the course is in great shape—why not treat yourself to a tee time this week?
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